The Pousse d’Or 2007 Volnay Caillerets smells of game, sweat, and sea breeze, foreshadowing the animal, chalk, and alkali that inflect its red berry fruit on the palate. A polished texture and adept balance of ripe fruit with mineral and carnal diversity render this both interesting and tasty. A faint catch of tannin is more of a slight annoyance than a promise of potential, and I would plan on enjoying the wine within the next 3-5 years. Patrick Landanger’s recent vintages seem to reflect increasing confidence (not to mention consistency), displaying a sense of restraint while combining richness and transparency to detail. Between the threat of rot and of roasting, he observes, the 2007s required more rigorous sorting than did the fruit from 2008, with a correspondingly lower crop, but Landanger and his crew did an outstanding job in the face of 2007 adversities as well as in 2008. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93