The 2004 Shiraz “Alice’s Block” received the same 28 months in used American oak. The riveting nose of smoke, asphalt, earth, truffle, blackberry, and blueberry roars from the glass. Dense, packed, and opulent, it somehow is able to concurrently exhibit finesse and elegance. Amazingly pure and long in the finish, one’s first reaction is that it cannot get any better. Remarkably, it does. Greenock Creek Vineyard and Cellars, owned by Michael and Annabelle Waugh, is one of the Barossa’s benchmark wineries. Start with a great terroir, add in old vine material, and meticulous winemaking and the results are usually extraordinary.Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (805) 278-9095

Heady and superripe, this is a huge, mouthfilling wine that fits the ooze monster moniker, yet it finishes with structure and elegance. Camphor and cracked pepper scents accent the blackberry, dark chocolate and mint flavors that finish long, framed by dusty tannins. Drink now–2025.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 95