The 2002 Pinot Noir Brosseau Vineyard, from the Chalone appellation, offers earthy, peppery, herbaceous scents along with an evolved deep ruby/garnet color. There is also a southern Rhone garrigue-like component to the aromatics. However, in the mouth it will not be mistaken for a Grenache as Pinot Noir’s sweet cherry/spiciness is abundantly displayed. Medium-bodied and complex, with plenty of spice, earth, and herbal characteristics, this enticing Pinot may be controversial. I think it is excellent, possibly outstanding, but some readers may not agree. Tel. (714) 280-0994

The lightest and most elegant of Loring’s releases, and for me the most satisfying, although it’s still a big, dense wine. Cherry, coffee, root beer and smoky oak flavors, with good acidity and rich tannins. Feels a bit heavy now, but should soften and develop complexities in time. Drink now through 2010.——S.H.(11/1/2004)—— 88