The 2001 Crognolo, theoretically the regular bottling, is anything but in its bright ruby color and its warm, lightly spiced, caramel nose which features abundant berry fruit. The ripe and focused flavors have unusual continuity, persistence, and substance for a wine of this category. Drink:2005-2010. Sette Ponti is located in the Arno river valley south of Florence, an area with some reputation in the distant past but, until recently, not a site for better wine in Tuscany. The picture is now changing, however, and one of the major movers and shakers is Antonio Moretti, a restless and ambitious entrepreneur who has given new dynamism to his family’s estate. After an excellent debut in 1999 and some very good wines in the difficult 2000 vintage, he has hit the jackpot in 2001 with wines which are destined to put this label on the map. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Huge and meaty, with round berry and plum aromas propped up by a healthy load of lumber. The palate is loaded with plum and chocolate, while the finish is ultra rich and smooth, bordering on buttery. In the end it all comes together. Give this Sangiovese ample air and it’s sure to please. ——M.S.(10/1/2004)—— 91