At 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, this is a sculpted, perfumed second-vintage red with cranberry as well as cherry fruit and well-integrated oak. What makes this a winner, especially with food, is that the crystalline, racy fruit far outshadows the oak. It’s not old-school, but you’d still have to call it a traditional Tuscan wine. ——M.S.(8/1/2002)—— 92