The Lambrays 2007 Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru offers a carnal dimension, textural richness, and refinement of tannin missing from the corresponding village-level bottling, along with the bright red fruits and incense-like herbal pungency familiar from this entire family of wines. The overall effect is still rather low-key, but this should be worth following for at least 4-5 years and I would not be surprised to see it acquire a bit more interest during its first couple of years in bottle, and perhaps even short-term. Thierry Brouin claims that “extreme selectivity and 4,700 bottles of Bourgogne rose” (of which, however, he didn’t open one for me) was his “formula” for 2008 excellence. I last tasted the wines – some lots of which didn’t finish malo until December – assembled from tank just prior to their March bottling. The 2007s were bottled in that month as well, “proper” wines – notes Brouin – “rendered from fruit that didn’t look very good.” Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

A complex nose of flowers, spice and wild berries complements the silky texture in this deep, complex red. Pure, focused and graceful, with a lingering aftertaste of licorice and mineral. Best from 2012 through 2022. 25 cases imported. -BS

Offers notes of candied cherry and spice and moderate richness, all backed by firm tannins. Less expressive now, this needs time to open. Shows good length, with oak spice accents. Best from 2011 through 2018. 25 cases imported. -BS