Incorporating some younger vine lots from the Clos, the Lambrays 2008 Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru Les Loups is pungently scented with incense and licorice (reinforced by the inclusion of stems in the ferment), allied to bright red fruits that impressively flood the palate. There is an energetic grip and attack here that goes well beyond the village bottling, but not the latter’s charm or textural allure. Conservatively, I’d look for 6-8 years of interesting evolution. Thierry Brouin claims that “extreme selectivity and 4,700 bottles of Bourgogne rose” (of which, however, he didn’t open one for me) was his “formula” for 2008 excellence. I last tasted the wines – some lots of which didn’t finish malo until December – assembled from tank just prior to their March bottling. The 2007s were bottled in that month as well, “proper” wines – notes Brouin – “rendered from fruit that didn’t look very good.” Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Spicy cherry, bilberry, floral and mint flavors are matched to a bracing structure in this linear red, which is balanced in a lean, taut style, with a mineral aftertaste. Needs time to integrate more fully. Best from 2013 through 2023. 25 cases imported. -BS