The Hecht & Bannier 2006 Cotes du Roussillon Villages smells of cedar, coconut (from a significant proportion of new wood), cherry, marjoram, and smoke. Stimulating hints of cherry pit bitterness along with smoke, herbal pungency, and graphite and crushed stone add to the dynamic impression conveyed by unusually fresh fruit, leading to a long, lip-smacking finish. While this ultimately lacks quite the richness or density of its 2005 counterpart, I imagine it will be well worth cellaring for at least 3-4 years, and it must be borne in mind that a track record is only beginning to accumulate for the maturation of Hecht & Bannier’s fine wines. Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier’s quality-conscious negociant operation (for more about which, consult the accompanying Languedoc report in this issue) are crafting wines on a par with the finest in Roussillon, making theirs consistently remarkable values. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

A great wine that’s sure to please. Ripe and fruity with cherry, red raspberry, thyme and eucalyptus on the nose. The mouth has a solid structure and is well integrated with prominent but not overpowering tannins and red plum guts on the palate. The finish is kissed with a hint of mocha.——L.B.(8/1/2009)—— 90