Tasted as a pre-assemblage from barrel, the Hecht & Bannier 2010 Cotes du Roussillon Villages is colorfully fruited with suggestions of black raspberry, blackberry, cassis, and blueberry, all alluringly wreathed in heliotrope and lily. Overtly chalky and smoky crushed stone and peat notes serve for counterpoint on a richly-textured, ripely-fruited yet vivacious palate, and hints of salt and dark chocolate at once add saliva-inducement, invigoration, and depth to a long finish. This impressive exemplar of vintage - not to mention Roussillon - virtues will hopefully gain in stature in the completion of its elevage and ought to be worth following for the better part of a decade.
Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier - for more about whose almost uniquely quality-conscious and hands-on negociant operation, consult the Languedoc section of my report in issue 183 as well as in this issue - are extremely dedicated to as well as fascinated by Roussillon potential, even though they have been releasing until this year only a single wine of Roussillon appellation, which nowadays features roughly half Grenache from the chalk of Vingrau and Tautavel as well as the schist of Maury; Carignan from high elevation, gneiss and granite sites in Belesta and Caramany; Syrah, beginning in 2008 from the high, granite hills of Lesquerde; and a "small drop" of Mourvedre from Estagel. The results - just as with this team's work in Languedoc appellations - have been wines on a par with those of the finest domaines, yet at amazingly modest prices.
Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700