The 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages from geologically diverse sites in a half dozen outstanding villages is composed primarily of Grenache, with smaller amounts of Carignan, Syrah, and Mourvedre. “The Carignan” from high elevation Belesta and Caramany “is key,” maintains Hecht, because Grenache from schist in Maury (which make up about a quarter of the blend) can represent too much richness and blatant fruitiness. High-toned mint, cherry distillate, blackberry liqueur, and floral notes as if from some exotic orchid light up the nose and lead to a deeply rich, opulent palate. Like the corresponding 2007 Faugeres (reviewed in my Languedoc report), this shows more obvious sweetness of fruit and viscosity than previous renditions, yet ups the ante in all other departments as well, and the last thing that comes to mind here is over-ripeness or heaviness. On the contrary, there is terrific energy and lift, leading to a polished, savory, persistently stimulating finish. Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier’s quality-conscious negociant operation (for more about which, consult the accompanying Languedoc report in this issue) are crafting wines on a par with the finest in Roussillon, making theirs consistently remarkable values. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700