The Hecht & Bannier 2008 Cotes du Roussillon Villages displays the vibratory kinetics; abundance of vivacious fruit - yet here possessed of almost liqueur-like sweetness; and complexity of mineral elements that one has come to associate with the best wines of this vintage. Lily and heliotrope mingle with the aromas of ripe black raspberry, blackberry can cassis, then offer persistent inner-mouth allure as the sweet berry concentrate saturates the palate while mouthwatering salinity and schistic crushed-stone and peat-like smokiness build in intensity toward a finish the displays - for all of its richness - the remarkable sense of levity and vibrancy that is often attributed to the alleged miracle of chalky soils such as characterize Vingrau. This much though is sure: You don't have to believe in the efficacy of geological underpinnings to recognize the dazzling complexity and uncanny balance on display here. This phenomenal value should make for riveting entertainment over at least the next 5-7 years, and probably - though the track record is only now accumulating - for significantly longer. Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier - for more about whose almost uniquely quality-conscious and hands-on negociant operation, consult the Languedoc section of my report in issue 183 as well as in this issue - are extremely dedicated to as well as fascinated by Roussillon potential, even though they have been releasing until this year only a single wine of Roussillon appellation, which nowadays features roughly half Grenache from the chalk of Vingrau and Tautavel as well as the schist of Maury; Carignan from high elevation, gneiss and granite sites in Belesta and Caramany; Syrah, beginning in 2008 from the high, granite hills of Lesquerde; and a "small drop" of Mourvedre from Estagel. The results - just as with this team's work in Languedoc appellations - have been wines on a par with those of the finest domaines, yet at amazingly modest prices. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

A lifting menthol streak infuses the ripe red plum and berry aromas and flavors of this wine, with a nice minerality lingering underneath it all. Balanced with medium acidity and moderate but fine tannins, the wine’s finish shows a cinnamon and nutmeg spice accent appears after swallow. Very drinkable now. ——L.B.(2/1/2012)—— 88