The 2006 Chardonnay Jurosa is another restrained bottling. Ripe tropical fruit, smoke, tar and minerals emerge from this fresh, vibrant Chardonnay. The aromatics are well-delineated and the wine possesses an outstanding sense of balance. The Jurosa sees a higher percentage of new oak barrels, ranging from 30-50%. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Proprietor Alvaro Pecorari has made some important changes over the last few years. The late harvests and super-ripe style of previous vintages have been replaced with earlier picking and an emphasis on freshness, an approach Pecorari feels is better suited to the Isonzo microclimate which can be quite warm but also feature good alternation of daytime and evening temperatures. Pecorari has also taken steps to eliminate the use of herbicides in his vineyards. After tasting a few of the estate’s wines from 2000 and 2001 I can safely conclude that the new direction is quite positive, as those earlier wines remain heavy and haven’t developed the degree of elegance I had hoped they would a few years back. Pecorari favors 500-liter French oak barrels for his top selections, with batonnage (stirring of the fine lees) taking place twice a week. Over the last few years Lis Neris has imported its wines directly into the US, a consumer-friendly decision that has kept prices quite reasonable. Importer: Lis Neris Estate, Manhasset, NY; staff@lisnerisusa.com

This smooth and supple Chardonnay from northeast Italy boasts steadfast intensity and pretty aromas of citrus blossom, peach, honey and a touch of fresh vanilla bean. The wine’s creamy density makes for a natural companion to pasta and lasagna.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 87