Prunotto’s 2009 Barolo shows austere aromas of pressed fruit, tar and licorice. There’s no question that this wine has been made with impeccable precision. With a little time in the glass, softer tones of spice and leather become more evident. It shows medium body with rock solid structure at the back. I am interested in tasting this wine again in four or five years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The big news at Prunotto (Marchesi Antinori’s estate in Monforte d’Alba) is the near completion of a state-of-the-art winery. This is the latest project added to the Florentine family’s already impressive list of wineries spanning the Italian peninsula. Starting this fall, the new building will house the estate’s more prestigious wine, the Barolo Bussia Riserva Vigna Colonnello. Its first edition, the 2008 vintage, will be released in 2014. I was delighted to see how far this winery has come. Just a few years ago, I recall darkly jammy and over extracted wines from Prunotto. But the current offers are anything but. They show enormous elegance and poise, even in the warmer vintages. Importer: Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Woodinville, WA; tel. (425) 415-3738

Offers an intriguing mix of earth, licorice and red berry fruit, followed by fruit and tobacco flavors. This is lean and a bit chewy, with a firm grip on the finish. Best from 2016 through 2028. 1,000 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Prunotto’s straight Barolo shows juicy, ripe cherry, white pepper and balsamic sensations, and just a hint of espresso. It’s nicely balanced, although there’s not a ton of complexity.

Scents of porcini and of root vegetables pulled from the earth add to this wine’s classical impression, as do the formidable tannins wrapped with lasting red fruit. Those tannins carry an equally red spice, transforming the vintage’s ripeness into an autumnal feel. A few years in the cellar should allow the fruit to express itself more fully.