The 2004 Barolo Cannubi (aged in French oak) is made in a rich, dense style that aims for concentration as opposed to an expression of this historic vineyard’s unique qualities. The wine offers up an array of chocolate, spices and plums, with outstanding balance. Although the tannins are well-integrated, they aren’t as refined as one might hope in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2019. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Perfumed aromas of blackberry, mineral and licorice. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins, yet refined and balanced. Long and polished in the mouth. Best after 2012. 750 cases made, 450 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Ripe raspberry fruit, stylish. Reflected in the ripe, healthy, engaging flavour. Good persistence. Not a heavyweight. Actually quite light, but stylish.

Damilano is one of Barolo’s historic wineries and Cannubi its most historic vineyard cru. All that history combines here to shape a traditional, yet New World wine with plush roundness and intense notes of spice, leather, pipe tobacco, polished red wood and black currant. It’s luscious, velvety and tight in the mouth and will improve with age. Drink with venison or game.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 92