The 2001 Torgiano Rosso Riserva Rubesco Vigna Monticchio is made in a more delineated, sculpted style than the 2001. It is a delicate, feminine wine with a pretty notes of cherries, spices and tobacco. Both bottles I tasted showed slightly drying tannins on the finish. The style, which is neither modern nor traditional, suggests the estate could benefit from greater conviction in the winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Lungarotti is one of Umbria’s largest and most historic estates. The flagship wine is the Torgiano Rosso Riserva Vigna Monticchio, a blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo aged in cask and smaller French oak barrels for 12 months. Winemaking has moved towards a more modern style in recent years yet the wines could use a little more direction, clarity and focus. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725

The wine boasts measured intensity and pretty, delicate aromas of small berry fruit, pomegranate juice, balsam notes, spice, black fruit and a hint of licorice. The impact is determined and compact without being exaggerated and the wine imparts long-lasting menthol notes with spice and some tart sourness.——M.L.(5/1/2008)—— 89