From a vintage that threw many challenges at vintners due to above average summer temperatures and a lack of moisture, the 2017 Torgiano Rosso Riserva Rubesco Vigna Monticchio keeps its cool proverbially speaking. Chiara Lungarotti tells me that with the pressures of climate change, maintaining acidity is the goal, and concerns about extract are no longer an issue. Sangiovese was harvested cluster by cluster to assure the best selection of fruit. Pump-overs were reduced to almost nothing during a delicate 26-day maceration period. The results show dark fruit and black cherry, with earthy sensations and cooked clay, but that tingle of acidity gives life to the palate.