The 2003 Torgiano Rosso Riserva Rubesco Vigna Monticchio is a big, full-bodied wine loaded with the essence of black cherries, tobacco, earthiness, tar and licorice. It offers outstanding depth and finishes with remarkable elegance, most notably in the tannins. Still quite vibrant and primary, it should drink well to at least age 15, perhaps beyond. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Lungarotti is one of Umbria’s largest and most historic estates. The flagship wine is the Torgiano Rosso Riserva Vigna Monticchio, a blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo aged in cask and smaller French oak barrels for 12 months. Winemaking has moved towards a more modern style in recent years yet the wines could use a little more direction, clarity and focus. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725

Rubesco Riserva is a dark and sophisticated wine (a 70-30 blend of Sangiovese and Canajolo) with big aromas of red fruit and exotic spice. This vintage (2003 was an exceptionally hot year) shows extra ripeness on the fruit and a touch of bitterness on the close.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 89