Also impressive is the 2007 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega, which has loads of sassafras, damp earth, sweet and sour cherries, and raspberries. The texture is lush and the wine medium to full-bodied, with excellent purity and length. It should drink well for 5-6 years as well. Adam Tolmach continues to dial back the intensity of his wines for reasons that escape me. The three Chardonnays I tasted were all certainly very good, but it seems to me that ten years ago they would have been even better. Tel. (805) 649-1674

Too young now, a tight wine whose oak, acidity, alcohol and fruit are all over the place. The cherry, currant, cola, beef jerky and Asian spice flavors are quite intricate and delicious. There’s a dry, elegant wine in here that’s just waiting to bust out and come together after 4–5 years in a good cellar. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 90