The 2009 Pinot Noir Fe Ciega is gorgeous. It presents an attractive marriage of power and structure. There is an energy and raciness to the Fe Ciega that is compelling. Dark cherries, plums, menthol and sweet floral notes wrap around the intense finish. The Pinot clones in this parcel at Fe Ciega are 667, 115 and Pommard. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Ojai and proprietor Adam Tolmach. The 2009 Pinots and 2008 Syrahs in particular are terrific. The best Ojai wines – and there are many that vie for that label – are gorgeous, transparent to site and highly expressive. As always, the style at Ojai is fairly non-interventionalist. Since 2005, the fermentations have been gentler, with less overall extraction. The malos proceed naturally and slowly. As a rule, the wines are never racked until bottling. The Ojai wines remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality and painstaking effort that goes into every bottle. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com