Tasted from magnum this time, this was a frighteningly backward, deeply impressive 1989 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu. Black plum dominates the nose flanked by blueberry and pastille-like notes. It is very pure but structured, obdurate and unyielding on the palate with perfectly matched acidity. It is an immense Volnay and yet it is one that demands respect more than doling out pleasure. Tasted June 2015.