This is one of Dominique Lafon’s best wines of the 1990s and easily surpasses the 1995. It has a wonderful bouquet that is very focused: raspberry, a touch of cassis, Indian ink and just a suggestion of singed leather. It has a sweet entry on the palate that is underpinned by fine tannins and an elegant, sensual finish that lacquers but never oppresses the mouth. There is wonderful tension and purity in this Volnay, perhaps in some ways auguring the style of wine post-2000. You can drink this now, though I would prefer to leave the 1996 another five years because there is a lot to come. Drink now-2026. Tasted September 2013.