Candied black cherries can be found in the nose of the 2001 Volnay Santenots du Milieu. Light to medium-bodied, it offers gorgeous purity of fruit, excellent depth, and a silky-textured core of cherries. Projected maturity: now-2009. Dominique Lafon is on fire, in a zone, on top of his game. He’s never made better wines, and he improves with each passing vintage. Importers: Various including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel: (617) 731-6644; Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; (212) 625-2505; and Beaune Imports