The bright, dark ruby-colored 1997 Volnay Santenots du Milieu yielded only 25 h/h and was harvested at a whopping 13.5% natural potential alcohol. Naturally, it was not chaptalized. It offers intense aromas of plummy cherries. Its awesome aromatics reveal the sur-maturite levels of Lafon's harvest. This is a mouth-coating, medium to full-bodied, broad, velvety wine that abounds with layers and layers of sweet black fruits. Its candied, almost confectionary finish is extremely long, and reveals supple, ripe tannins. Anticipated maturity: now-2007. Importer: Ex Cellars, Solvang, CA; tel (805) 686-9153.