Still superb, the 1998 Condrieu La Doriane offers a buttery, smoky, orange marmalade, peach jam-scented bouquet with tell-tale mineral notes. It is an unctuously-textured, rich Condrieu that should drink well for another year. Importer: Fred Ek, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Has an underlying fatness, showing power but also grace and loads of apricot, peach and floral notes as expected from a top-flight Viognier. The wood needs time to melt into the wine. Not easy now, but it should develop nicely with cellaring. Best from 2002 through 2007. 800 cases made. -PM