The 2006 Condrieu La Doriane reveals a classic honeysuckle scent interwoven with touches of smoke and apricot marmalade. Full-bodied, intense, and complex with undeniable minerality, this is a sensational wine to enjoy over the next year. While the entire world of wine knows how profound Guigal’s red wines are, they may not know that he continues to demonstrate a complete mastery of white wine varietals, from his lowly Cotes du Rhone blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Clairette, and Bourboulenc, to his seriously-endowed dry whites from the northern Rhone. There are two cuvees of white Hermitage. The luxury offering, Ex-Voto, comes from five acres of 90-year old Marsanne vines planted in two separate vineyards on Hermitage Hill - l’Ermite and Les Murets. As the following notes indicate, Guigal has set aside a number of barrels that could make up the 2007 Ex-Voto, but he is not yet sure the quality will be high enough as this must be a wine of great richness and complexity.Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

I loved the 2006 Condrieu la Doriane and this fat, full-bodied and unctuous effort offers exotics notes of caramelized peach, orange marmalade, sappy flowers and a touch of minerality. Like the 2007, it shows some evolution, yet is fresh, lively and pure.

Still a bit tight, with alluring hints of warm brioche and wheat biscuit giving slowly to richer notes of nut oil, papaya, almond butter and carmelized figs. Long, richly detailed finish should open up nicely with mid-term cellaring. Great combination of richness and purity. Drink now through 2013. 1,200 cases made. -JM