What Romeo has achieved in the challenging 2002 vintage is impressive. The least expensive offering here is the 2002 La Cueva del Contador, a 100% Tempranillo bottled unfiltered after spending time in French oak. Dense ruby/purple-hued, with a fragrant bouquet of roasted espresso, melted chocolate, scorched earth, and dense black currant and cherry fruit, it is reminiscent of some of the great efforts from Peter Sisseck’s Pingus. Opulent and full-bodied with an unctuous texture, sweet tannin, and low acidity, this beauty is clearly made in the more modern style of Rioja winemaking. It should drink well for 10-12 years. The prices for these wonderful curiosities reflect their rarity as well as the high quality winemaking. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

This modern-style red offers toasty and smoky oak framing plump black cherry and blackberry fruit. Plush, with just enough tannins for grip. Lively acidity. Drink now. 15 cases imported. -TM