The 2004 La Cueva del Contador is purple-colored with a splendid nose of espresso roast, scorched earth, black currants, blueberry and chocolate. On the palate the wine is supple and somehow manages to be elegant despite its layers of red and black fruits and extract. Rich and amazingly long, this wine will evolve for a decade and drink well for another 35-40 years. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Ripe, dark flavors of roasted plum, coffee and cola are supported by firm, well-integrated tannins and lively acidity. Concentrated, but keeps its balance. Best after 2008. 16 cases imported. -TM