I've always had a bit of a soft spot for the La Cueva del Contador cuvee, which in the 2011 vintage comes through as a powerful version of a Cote de Nuits, with red and black fruits, vanilla and cinnamon and a balanced, soft palate with intense flavors, good acidity and harmony. It should develop more complexity with time in bottle, but it-s approachable now. Drink 2014-2020. The big news this year is that Benjamin Romeo, who is one of the iconic producers of modern Rioja, is bottling a Gran Reserva, a tribute to his mother Carmen, a perfect example of the convergence of the modern and traditional styles to produce great Rioja. Imported by Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565; www.europeancellars.com