The purple-colored 2006 La Cueva del Contador was aged for 12 months in new French oak and bottled without fining or filtration. It gives up an outstanding perfume of pain grille, pencil lead, damp earth, incense, and black cherry. Opulent on the palate, it is dense, rich, and full-flavored with enough ripe tannin to evolve for 4-6 years. Drink this lengthy effort from 2014 to 2031. No Contador was produced in the challenging 2006 vintage and was instead blended into the Cueva cuvee. All of the Benjamin Romeo wines are 100% Tempranillo. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Starts with the scent of beef on the grill, and then folds in black fruit and fine aged cheese. The palate is as rich and smooth as a silk throw, while flavors of berry, cassis, herbs and coffee cover the bases. Mildly balsamic on the finish, yet not complicated, demanding or overly complex. Drink now through 2012.——M.S.(2/1/2010)—— 93