The 2007 Dolcetto d’Alba Piani Noce is a quintessential wine from Marco Parusso. Made in a style that emphasizes elegance over sheer concentration of fruit, it reveals floral red berries, smoke and earthiness in an almost-Burgundian style of Dolcetto. The wine offers excellent length and complexity although the tannins dry out a bit on the finish. In 2007, I didn’t pick up the notes of reduction that have sometimes been present in this wine. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Marco Parusso’s entry-level wines have all of the qualities that readers will find in the higher-end bottlings; namely an approach that seeks elegance, finesse and understatement. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898