Marco Parusso’s 2010 Dolcetto d’Alba Piani Noce is a big wine bursting with dark fruit, smoke, tar, incense and licorice. It is a fairly exotic yet medium-bodied wine with hints of the late harvest that come through in the richness of the fruit. This is a bit unusual in style, but it works. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898