Here's a different way to look at the Dolcetto grape that often offers a big bang of primary aromas but doesn't go much beyond. The Parusso 2018 Dolcetto d'Alba Piani Noce walks you backward with a lot of back-end energy, richness and depth to match all that black fruit intensity that you get on the front. The wine offers a more complete and exhaustive journey into this important Piemonte grape. It's offbeat for sure, with unexpected curves and twists, but it's a fun ride.