The 2007 Reserva shows far greater pedigree than the 2006. The blend is approximately the same with an additional two months in American oak. It exhibits greater intensity on the nose with elegant red fruit, mingling with lavender and terracotta aromas. It is well-defined and speaks of its place. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy, well-defined entry. Crisp red fruit, sage and a touch of orange rind vie for attention, while the oak is succinctly well-integrated. The cocoa-tinged finish is both satisfying and long. Drink 2014-2025. One of the most famous names in Rioja, Marques de Murrieta was founded in 1852 by Luciano Murrieta, who was inspired by his three-year sojourn in Bordeaux. In 1983 it was purchased by Vicente Dalmau Cebrian-Sagarriga and presently, winemaker Maria Vargas oversees their portfolio that includes both modern and classic styles of Rioja. The 300 hectares of vines on the Ygay Estate in La Rioja Alta allows them to control the quality and within this estate they have singled out specific parcels for their flagship wines. I will start with the white wines. I must confess that I was alarmed by the amount of oxidation shown by the three vintages of Capellania Blanco Reserva that I tasted. Both bottles of the 2005 and 2006 appeared to be excessively oxidized to a degree that I will not pass judgement. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines, Oakland CA; tel. (510) 587-2000.

Dark ruby garnet, violet reflections, delicate water edge. Intense herbal spice, tobacco nuances, black berry fruit, balsamic notes, a touch of chocolate. Juicy, extract-sweet and complex, ripe plums, fine dried fruit stacks and spices, nougat in the finish, mineral aftertaste, a substantial, well-ripened food companion.