El Molino's lovely 2006 Chardonnay reveals notions of white peaches, honeysuckle, and caramelized oranges. This clean, pure, ripe, medium to full-bodied, fresh white possesses impressive complexity as well as purity. It should drink nicely for another two years. Tel. (707) 963-3632; Fax (707) 963-1647

You might not expect Chardonnay, a cool-climate wine, to thrive in the warmth of a Rutherford summer. But El Molino consistently makes a really nice one. The ’06 is ripely forward in tropical fruit and pear flavors that are enriched with caramel cream and smoky vanilla. But it also has a crisp acidity that gives the wine balance and zest.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 90