The 1920 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs was offered by Guillaume d'Angerville from his cellars, although it comes from a cache auctioned in France of impeccable provenance. This was the fifth bottle that Guillaume had ever opened and it is wine that I doubt none of us will ever forget. The colour is clear and lucid, just its tile rim giving away its age. The bouquet utterly profound with delineation and mineralité in a league of its own. Cold limestone, mandarin, orange zest...but it is the energy in the aromatics that knocks you over. The palate has a symmetry and precision that is quite extraordinary: perfect acidity and tension. Mandarin and Seville orange here, but again its just the overwhelming feeling of energy that comes through. Regal in every way, the 1920 Clos des Ducs must go down as one of the great Burgundy wines that I have ever experienced.