The 2009 Volnay Clos Des Ducs is the only wine in this lineup that is playing its cards close to the vest. Weightless yet powerful, the Clos des Ducs impresses for its striking balance and poise. There is so much going on in the glass its hard to know where to start. Floral notes meld into hints of licorice, sweet red cherries and mint in this crystalline, totally gorgeous Volnay. Today the tannins are impossibly firm, so readers will have to be patient. This is far from an easygoing 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. I tasted the 2009s from D’Angerville twice recently, once at the winery in December 2011 and a second time in my office in New York. The Volnay, Volnay 1er and Volnay Champans were all less impressive than the first time I tasted those wines, just after botting. Time will tell if the wines are going through a closed phase today, or if I overrated them the first time around. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600