The 2010 Volnay Clos des Ducs is a wonderfully complete wine. Layers of sculpted, chiseled fruit flow gracefully as the Clos des Ducs opens up in the glass. Dark red cherries, licorice, spices and cedar are given an attractive lift by the expressive floral notes that are woven throughout. This is a beautifully centered, poised wine that impresses for its purity and focus. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. The 2010s from Marquis d’Angerville are stellar. They are the product of a year that saw yields lowered by 40-50% on average. It was quite a shock to see the domain’s cellars with so few barrels in them. As always, the wines were made with fully de-stemmed fruit. I will report on the 2009s in the April issue. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600