The 1991 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries, baking chocolate, burning embers, orange rind and thrilling carnal nuances. Medium to full-bodied, deep and complete, it's structured around an elegantly muscular chassis of fine, powdery tannins and racy acids, concluding with a sapid finish. This is a collected, serious Clos des Ducs that was surely comparatively austere in its youth, but today it's beginning to drink beautifully.