The 1953 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs is an ethereal, heavenly wine that enraptured its audience, including Guillaume d'Angerville who was tasting it for the very first time. Served blind against the '53 Champans no less, it has profound bouquet with vestiges of red cherry fruit intermingling with brown sugar and a light sea cave scent. The palate has astonishing precision and matière with marmalade, citrus lemon and orange zest notes, but it is more about the tension and energy contained in this Clos des Ducs. It actually seems to gain precision in the glass, as if adjusting the focus on a camera lens so that everything is perfectly clear. Glorious.