The 2009 Pinot Noir Thieriot has everything. An explosive bouquet leads to vibrant fruit in this highly articulate, nuanced wine. The tannins are a bit firm, but all the Theriot needs is another few years in bottle. All of the elements are there for this to be a spectacular wine in another few years. Black cherries, sweet herbs, white flowers inform the exuberant finish. The balance of fruit, structure and minerality is first-class. The Thieriot was made with 100% destemmed fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. I was totally blown away by the wines I tasted with proprietor Ted Lemon. These are some of the most refined, polished Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs being made in California today. I can’t recommend the wines highly enough. Lemon describes 2009 as a mild season with prolonged bloom that resulted in considerable shatter and a high amount of shot berries. There was no real heat to speak of in September. The 2010s were harvested during the first two weeks of October, much later than the 2009s. I also tasted a handful of 2010 Pinots from tank that appear promising, even if stylistically they aren’t as generous as the 2009s. Tel. (707) 823-9586; www.littorai.com