The dark ruby-colored 1997 Ramitello Rosso, a blend of 70% Prugnolo and 30% Aglianico, aged in large oak foudres, offers notes of dried cherries, ripe plums in addition to a fat, lush, concentrated palate. Although not complicated, it displays quantities of fennel and black fruit characteristics, low acidity, and a fleshy texture. Drink this hedonistic effort over the next 2-3 years, preferably with meat dishes. This is an excellent value. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620