Colombo seems to have done well given the challenges of 2004. For example, the 2004 Cornas Terres Brulees, which comes from 20 separate parcels, reveals excellent sweet tannin, dark ruby/purple color, and plenty of black fruits intermixed with new saddle leather and espresso notes. It is a modern-styled Cornas, but certainly well-done, very pure, and ideal for drinking over the next 5-7 years. The well-known consulting oenologist in the Rhone Valley, Jean-Luc Colombo, has an ever-expanding negociant business for his wines. With the exception of his three estate wines of Cornas, all of the other wines listed are negociant bottlings. He is a talented winemaker and that is evidenced in his whites. Importer: Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, Fl; tel. (561) 362-9642

In this challenging vintage, Colombo’s entry-level Cornas is a bit lean and tart, turning crisp and cranberry-like despite having 14% alcohol. Cherry, sandalwood and vanilla flavors are pleasant enough, just without the warmth and flesh of a warmer year.——J.C.(9/1/2007)—— 86