Aged 18 months in primarily French oak, the 2004 Shiraz G.A.M. is an exceptional example of a precise yet full-flavored, concentrated Shiraz. Its gorgeous perfume of blueberries, blackberries, camphor, licorice, and pain grille is followed by an inky/blue/purple-colored wine offering superb purity, full-bodied richness, and gorgeous depth as well as texture. This fabulous effort is another example of Ben Glaetzer’s brilliant talents. It should drink well for 15 years. For a winery only established in 1999, and dedicated to hand-crafted, artisinal wines, Mitolo has consistently been a revelation in my tastings. Thanks to owner Frank Mitolo and his brilliant winemaker, Ben Glaetzer, the quality has been truly splendid. Importer: Benjamin Hammerschlag, Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 923-1376

Full-bodied and lush, this hedonistic Shiraz easily hides its elevated alcohol level (15%) behind layers of concentrated plummy fruit. Hints of coffee, herbs and spices impart complexity, so this isn’t a simple fruit bomb. Long and focused on the finish, with well-concealed structure that keeps the fruit from becoming jammy. Drink now–2015.——J.C.(12/15/2006)—— 92