Fashioned from a McLaren Vale vineyard, the 2005 Shiraz G.A.M. (named after the Mitolo children – Gemma, Alexander, and Marco) is a deep ruby/purple-hued effort displaying beautiful blackberry, white pepper, licorice, and toasty oak notes. Rich, full-bodied, and intense, with blueberry and blackberry flavors, sweet tannin, and excellent purity, it is a tour de force in winemaking. Enjoy it over the next decade. Importer: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000

Winemaker Ben Glaetzer has crafted yet another excellent wine for the Mitolo family, and even though the Reiver Shiraz seems a touch better this vintage, the G.A.M. is no slouch. Its bouquet of vanilla, spice and plum pudding even smells rich, and that’s followed by a medium- to full-bodied wine with a creamy texture and authoritative fruit flavors. Shows a touch of warmth on the finish, but also spice notes and some dusty tannins. Drink 2008–2015. ——J.C.(4/1/2007)—— 90