The higher-end wines begin with the 2007 G.A.M. Shiraz. Purple-colored, it offers an alluring bouquet of spice box, black cherry, blueberry, and a hint of chocolate. This leads to a concentrated, ripe, layered wine with excellent depth and length. Already complex, it will continue to evolve with another several years of cellaring. Drink it from 2011 to 2020. Mitolo, which began operations in 1999, is a partnership of the Mitolo family and winemaker Ben Glaetzer. The focus is on McLaren Vale fruit from Willunga, the most southern part of the district. The 2007 vintage with its drought conditions and decreased production have resulted in wines from Mitolo that are merely outstanding rather than sublime. The value-priced Jester series was reviewed in Issue 178. Importer: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY; www.mitolowines.com.au

Ripe in flavor and jazzy in style, with boysenberry and gentle tarry flavors gliding smoothly over polished tannins and lingering on the harmonious finish. Drink now through 2012. 3,000 cases imported.??–HS??Region: Australia / McLaren Vale Select to Add

Mitolo’s G.A.M. features great freshness and verve this vintage, showcasing mixed berries—raspberries and blackberries—framed by a generous helping of vanilla. Despite 15% alcohol, it comes across as balanced and only medium in body, finishing crisp and long.——J.C.(2/1/2010)—— 90