The 1991 Gevrey-Chambertin-Clos St.-Jacques exhibits an impressively saturated, deep ruby/purple color, and a tight but promising bouquet of cassis, fruit, new oak, and flowers. Concentrated and rich, with medium to full body, and high tannins, this powerful yet backward wine needs at least 5-6 years of cellaring. It should last for 15 or more years. Rousseau, one of the reference points for great burgundy, appears to have made 1991s that are even richer and more profound than his 1990s. His production was one-half of normal, so these wines will be difficult to find. Rousseau normally excels with his three top cuvees - Gevrey-Chambertin-Clos St.-Jacques, Chambertin-Clos de Beze, and Chambertin, but the lower level wines often lack concentration and intensity. That is not the case in 1991. Kudos to Rousseau for producing his finest portfolio of wines in over two decades! Importer: Frederick Wildman & Co., New York, NY.

A light, uncomplicated, lean mouthful of red raspberry and red currant flavors, with a light bite of tannin on the finish. Drink now. -