Once past the sweet, earthy, herb-tinged, black cherry and currant fruit, Pertimali's dark garnet- colored 1996 Brunello di Montalcino exhibits hard tannin as well as an austere, lean style. It is spicy, with good notes of leather, but its hardness makes it somewhat of a gamble. Give it two years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 12-15. The astringent tannin is a concern. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411