Pertimali’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino offers up floral red fruits, spices, leather and earthiness in a surprisingly medium-bodied style for this property. The wine possesses lovely length and refined, understated finish. The estate’s Brunello is quite open and accessible at this stage, and also more forward in its aromas and flavors than many other wines in this vintage, which suggests it is best enjoyed on the young side. Pertimali’s Brunello is one of the handful of wines that I expected more from in 2004. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119