Pertimali’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino is once again among the small number of wines being made in Montalcino that offers real character. This intense, powerful Brunello exhibits the essence of flowers, tar, smoke, dark cherries and wild herbs as it opens to reveal superb depth and concentration. The tannins of the vintage are present, but the wine’s sheer richness provides more than enough balance. A surprisingly fresh, long finish rounds out the wine. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. This venerable estate, one of Montalcino’s finest, continues to make wines of notable personality. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411