The estate’s 2004 Poggio de’ Colli (100% Cabernet Franc) is a rich, concentrated wine bursting with notes of coffee beans, licorice, spices, black pepper and super-ripe black cherries on a full-bodied frame. It is a big, backward wine that is in need of at least another year or two in bottle to come together. The 2004 Poggio de’ Colli spent 18 days in open-top wood fermentation vats followed by two years in French oak prior to being bottled without fining or filtration. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Proprietor Mauro Vanucci makes richly structured wines from his 15 hectares in the Carmignano appellation. He favors late harvests, long macerations lasting several weeks and small French oak barrels for aging. Vanucci’s approach to making super-ripe, concentrated wines yields its best results in balanced growing seasons such as 2004, but in the scorching-hot 2003 he may have pushed the envelope too far. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411